The Tragic death of John Evans: Inquest verdict

    An inquest into the death of popular Welsh climber John Evans found an underlying heart condition was a contributory factor into his death after a 100' fall in Llanberis last April. The 54 year old was a true international ambassador for the sport.Spending part of the year guiding in Alaska with the Alaskan Mountaineering School where he was also involved with the rescue services. For at least part of the year he could be found back home in Capel Curig, North Wales where he worked as a self employed instructor and guide and where he had been a member of the Ogwen Mountain Rescue Team for 36 years.
    An experienced climber, John was descending from a climb he had completed with his partner Lynne when he stumbled and slipped above the Clogwyn y Grochan cliff in the Llanberis Pass, North Wales.

    The inquest heard he would have survived but for underlying heart condition.Coroner Nicola Jones said shock and haemorrhage exacerbated his serious heart condition and resulted in death.
    He fell 30 metres to the base and then another 60 metres down a steep scree slope.
    Ms Jones recorded a narrative verdict.
    After his death the mountain rescue team said tributes had been paid to him from all over the world.
    Chris Lloyd, from the team, said: "John was a true professional in his fields, a real stalwart and the man to have with you when the going got tough on the mountains.
    "It is a great tragedy that the man who did so much to assist those in trouble in the mountains for 36 years should lose his life at such an early age and on the mountains he loved." 
    John leaves behind a partner Lynne and two children, David and Rhiannon.

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The Tragic death of John Evans: Inquest verdict


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Feeble wind farms fail to hit full power


    THE first detailed study of Britain’s onshore wind farms suggests some treasured landscapes may have been blighted for only small gains in green energy.
    The analysis reveals that more than 20 wind farms produce less than a fifth of their potential maximum power output.
    One site, at Blyth Harbour in Northumberland, is thought to be the worst in Britain, operating at just 7.9% of its maximum capacity. Another at Chelker reservoir in North Yorkshire operates at only 8.7% of capacity.Both are relatively small and old, but larger and newer sites fared badly, too, according to analyses of data released by Ofgem, the energy regulator, for 2008.

    Siddick wind farm in Cumbria, now operated by Eon, achieved only 15.8% of capacity, the figures suggest. The two turbines at High Volts 2, Co Durham, the largest and most powerful wind farm in Britain when it was commissioned in 2004, achieved 18.7%.
    Turbine efficiency is calculated by comparing theoretical maximum output with what the farms actually generate. The best achieve about 50% efficiency and the norm is 25%-30%.
    Experts say the figures for individual wind farms have to be treated with caution as output can vary sharply because of factors such as breakdowns.
    The revelation that so many wind farms are performing well below par, however, will reinforce the view of objectors who believe many turbines generate too little power to justify their visual impact.
    Britain has 245 onshore wind farms. Although wind power is expensive, the industry has boomed because of the “renewable obligation” subsidy system, under which consumers pay roughly double the normal price for energy from wind.
    The analyses were compiled by Allan Tubb, a former power engineer, on behalf of the Campaign to Limit Onshore Wind Development (CLOWD) and were based on data published by Ofgem showing the capacity and performance of Britain's renewable power generators. The original data can be found at https://www.renewablesandchp.ofgem.gov.uk/
    Michael Jefferson, professor of international business and sustainability at London Metropolitan Business School, who is also a former lead author for the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change, has cited the efficiency figures in peer-reviewed papers. He says the subsidy encourages the construction of wind farms.
    “Too many developments are underperforming,” he said. “It’s because developers grossly exaggerate the potential. The subsidies make it viable for developers to put turbines on sites they would not touch if the money was not available.”

    Jonathan Leake© : First Published in The Times: 21-3-10

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Feeble wind farms fail to hit full power


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Peter Hodgkiss..Ernest Press founder

    Peter Hodgkiss:Zannah Reed©


    MENTION the name Peter Hodgkiss to a British mountaineer and you will receive a look of recognition and admiration. Almost all mountaineers start out climbing in their minds, fuelled by published accounts of daring adventures and attempts at the near impossible. They long to be in the mountains often before they have even seen one.
    Which is why Hodgkiss, although not a world-class Alpinist, or at the cutting edge of modern mountaineering – at least not physically – is so influential. What he did was arguably more important.

    One of three brothers, Hodgkiss was born in Leeds in 1936. His family moved to Nottingham shortly afterwards and he attended school in West Bridgford. After leaving school,he followed his father into the printing business, serving a six-year apprenticeship.As a young man he was a passionate about sport, a keen rower and cyclist, but his introduction to the mountains came at the age of 17 on an Outward Bound course. A fire was lit and he realised he had a passion for hills and crags. Over the years, he became a proficient climber, comfortably operating at VS on the Scottish rock faces, and he was an accomplished Alpinist with ascents all over Britain and Europe. His philosophical approach to wilderness areas was one of a wanderer rather than peak bagger, and he preferred to spend time with his thoughts in less popular areas rather than head for the coveted climbing Meccas of Chamonix or Zermatt. His was a true passion rather than a testosterone-filled ego trip; he loved the space and significance of nature for its holistic value, rather than as a vehicle for any macho posturing. He was brought up a Catholic, but this was as close to religion as Hodgkiss got. In fact, his Sunday routine was so regular that one of his daughters once told a friend: "My father is agnostic, which means he goes climbing on a Sunday." A conservationist in both action and thought, he fought for the campaign to prevent the extension of the Cairngorm ski area in to Lurchers Valley, considering the Highlands as being precious and in need of careful management rather than commercial exploitation.

    It was this incredible love of the mountains and his experience and knowledge of printing and publishing that cemented Hodgkiss's legacy in British mountaineering. He met his wife, Joy, at the Church of the Good Shepherd in Woodthorpe and they married in 1959. In 1961, they moved to Glasgow and Hodgkiss began work as a troubleshooter for the Clyde Paper Company.

    The move meant he was within striking distance of some of the best climbing in the UK, hanging out with the notoriously tough Scottish climbing set. Hodgkiss himself was no wimp, however; regarding rain as "condensation" he could also move on ice up to a V grade. Even as he aged and became ill he would often say "growing old isn't for softies". His enthusiastic approach to mountains and mountain literature is legendary and yet for many, his influence is unrealised. The Alpine Club (Alps), the Scottish Mountaineering Club (Scotland), The Fell and Rock Climbing Club (Lake District) and Climber's Club (Wales) all have climbing guides. These guides are used by most, if not all, serious climbers when starting out, and many continue to use them long after they can consider themselves "experienced". Hodgkiss was the integral link between often amateur volunteer editors and the printing firms. He would advise on layout, format, paper quality, orientation of photographs and charts and anything else that required his expert eye. He also negotiated prices with the printing firms.

    In 1985 Hodgkiss, along with bookseller Jack Baines, co-founded the Ernest Press. It was a small, independent publishing house specialising in mountain literature. Their first publication was a copy of Twenty Years on Ben Nevis by WT Kilgour. The mountain classic had been out of print for 80 years and this approach to publishing books and stories that inspired both men led to the establishment of the Ernest Press's good reputation. His enthusiasm could be almost wearing, and he would refuse to accept that "bad" weather could spoil a day out. Too wet for climbing? No matter, plenty of walking to be done. No excuses. Hodgkiss was, at best, incorrigible and regularly started and finished his mountain days in the dark, often covering more ground in one day than many would cover in two or three.It is no exaggeration to say that without him, these guides would not have the same quality of production as they do today. Moreover, they might have ceased to be produced on such a wide scale. Hodgkiss's career followed the bucking trends of an inconsistent industry, and he frequently found himself out of work. During these times he sought solace in the hills and he found regular partners for his adventures through the Junior Mountaineering Club of Scotland. While Hodgkiss was keen to make money, this was not his motivation and his approach to publishing was very much like his approach to the mountains, an instinctive feel for what was right at the time. He proved to be an exceptionally talented publisher, with four of his books going on to win the Boardman Tasker Prize for literature, and many more have been shortlisted. This annual award is akin to the Oscars for mountain writing, and by no means a small deal. One particular Hodgkiss moment of inspired genius came when he was approached by an author by the name of Charles Lind. Lind had penned a prose-poem in the imagined mind of George Mallory, who was lost on Everest in 1924. The poem entitled An Afterclap of Fate: Mallory on Everest was an altogether different type of mountain recollection and difficult to sell to the climbing fraternity, let alone a publisher. Hodgkiss went with his gut and published it. Lind won the Boardman Tasker in 2006. If publishing mountain writing is a gamble, Hodgkiss was a betting man and more often than not he beat the odds. That said, the book has yet to sell a thousand copies.

    The Ernest Press holds a catalogue of some 50 books, many of them prizewinners. As well as Lind, Ernest Press has championed the work of Roger Hubank, a Boardman Tasker winner and recipient of the Grand Prix award at the Banff literature festival in 2001. Despite publishing brilliant, if non-commercial novelists, the company did make money – not from books but from mountain biking guides, a market it still dominates. In 1993, the Ernest Press was appointed joint publisher of the Alpine Journal, an annual 450-page collection of tales and pictures from the past year. It is the oldest journal of its kind in the world, having been first published in 1863. Hodgkiss was fastidious in his attention to detail when it came to producing the book, ensuring that its quality never diminished.

    Hodgkiss was an extraordinary driving force behind the scenes of British mountaineering. He was a modest man who inspired those around him and those who were not fortunate enough to meet him. His passion for the mountains never dwindled and his drive to educate others on the beauty and importance of those mountains never died.

    Peter Hodgkiss died of cancer. He is survived by his wife, Joy, and their four children

    Peter Hodgkiss. Born May 7th 1936 in Leeds. Died 31st January 2010 in Glasgow


    Chris Mair©   published in The Scotsman. 19-03-10

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Peter Hodgkiss..Ernest Press founder


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Peak District parkland under threat from the rise of the 4x4s

    Until a couple of weeks ago, Chertpit Lane was just another Derbyshire footpath and bridleway – a couple of miles of rough walking through the spectacular landscape of the Peak District National Park. Now it has come to symbolise a cause, as the scene of the first battle in the war to save the national park from the ravages of "off-road" motorcycles and 4x4s.
    Off-road motoring is literally wearing parts of the Peak District away. Yet it is being increasingly accommodated by authorities who have a duty to preserve the landscape of a national park which attracts almost 20 million visitors each year – virtually every one of them looking for clean air, clear skies and healthy exercise; not petrol fumes, the noise of revving engines and rutted roads.
    Peter Wood, a farmer in the Peak Park like his father before him, grieves over "ancient trails completely wrecked" by "men with no feeling for the countryside". He might complain about the way in which damaged roads add to the problems of rearing sheep and cattle on the high ground of Longstone Moor. But his real concern is the future of the Peak. Although he is a down-to-earth man, each item in the inventory of destruction clearly causes him pain. Black Harry Lane was once "full of flowers in the summer and green all the year round". Now the top soil is stripped away, leaving nothing but a rubble road which is impassable for horses and a struggle for hikers to climb.
    As a boy, Wood used to be taken on nature walks down Chertpit Lane. He expects it to go the same way as Black Harry Lane. For years, Chertpit Lane was a restricted byway from which motor traffic was excluded. A month ago, thanks to a decision of Derbyshire County Council, it was opened to all traffic. The process which legalised motor vehicles scrambling along what was once a "green road" combined tragedy and farce.
    Legislation that was intended to protect the rural environment was implemented in a way which encouraged off-road drivers to extend their activities and claim that the harm they do had been legitimised. The 2006 Natural Environment Act extinguished the right of motor vehicles to use every footpath which had ever been open to any sort of wheeled transport in England and Wales. But, during the "consultation period", the government agreed that applications could be made up until January 2005 for some to be kept open to off-roaders.
    So the garage door was locked after the motorcycles and the 4x4s had bolted. Hundreds of applications beat the deadline. One was in the name of Geoffrey Henton, a resident of Whitwell, 50 miles from the Peak Park. Asked why he chose to make that particular claim, he replied with admirable frankness: "We all decided to put one in." The "we" were members of The Trail Riders' Fellowship who, in the words of one council official, "adopted the scatter gun approach" in their attempt to make rural Derbyshire reverberate to the sound of motorcycles. Together with other "off-road" organisations, they have proved remarkably successful. In all, 231 claims have been made in Derbyshire alone. Seventy-six have a real chance of succeeding.
    Other counties face similar invasions. Not all of them see them as a danger. Hampshire has 180 applications to open green roads to traffic – described by a council official as "the exercise of legal rights". They are being processed at the rate of six to eight a year. That explains why – five years after the act was passed – rural England is starting to fight back.
    The desecration of the first few green roads was meekly accepted. But as the numbers have grown, year by year, the extent of the devastation has become intolerable. It is worst in the hilly national parks – Exmoor, the Lake District, Northumberland, North York Moors and the Peak. And it is likely to become even worse as off-road organisations grow more confident that their claims will be upheld. The Chertpit Lane decision is an unhappy precedent.
    Like every local authority, Derbyshire is short of money. Yet it employed staff to prove that Chertpit Lane should be open to motor traffic because "on the balance of probability" it was once used by horse-drawn vehicles. The evidence, accepted by a public inquiry, included information from the Enclosure Plan of 1824, Greenwood's 1825 Map of Derbyshire and the Tithe Plan of 1847. The final judgment might have been invented as a satire on the law's absurdity. It amounted to a glorious non sequitur. Almost 200 years ago, hay carts passed down Chertpit Lane. So it must now be opened up to Land Rovers and Harley-Davidsons. Amenity, ecology, convenience and safety were ignored – despite the council's 2005 conclusion that the track was "too narrow for four-wheel vehicles".
    The Peak Park Planning Authority's stated aim is to "balance" the demands of off-roaders with those of hikers and horse-riders – an objective which makes up in piety what it lacks in reality. Their interests cannot be reconciled. Legal or not, off-road motoring tears the countryside apart. If, as the authority's strategy document claims, "the aim is to ensure that the national park will not be damaged for future generations", its obligation is not to "manage the routes" which the off-roaders use, but to do all in its power to minimise their presence within its boundaries. Off-roaders destroy every green road on which they drive.
    High on Longstone Edge, the distant view is of green hills and greener valleys stretching for mile after mile towards the horizon. The immediate prospect is grassland scarred with tyre tracks and pathways with potholes a foot deep.
    In defence of opening more green roads to traffic, the Peak Park Authority stresses the importance of distinguishing between users who "flagrantly disregard the law", and men and women who pursue a legitimate claim to enjoy the tranquil countryside in super-charged Land Rovers. Its officials claim that "the illegal use of the most damaged sites has decreased" – hardly surprising if more and more green roads are open for legal, though equally destructive, off-roading. Derbyshire police welcome co-operative efforts to "reduce the impact of irresponsible off-roading for local residents".
    Few Peak residents have noticed the improvement and evidence contradicts the optimistic generalities. A fortnight ago, just after the fightback started, South Yorkshire police confiscated a couple of motorcycles on the Sheffield approaches to the Park. But that is only nibbling at the edges of the problem. Every weekend prohibition signs are destroyed and walls are pulled down by the brutish fringe who follow the organised groups which advertise their respectability.
    Half a mile away from Black Harry Lane, the Great Double Dyke – English Heritage Scheduled Monument 31229 – bears witness to the havoc wreaked by the tearaways. Two parallel ditches have marked the boundary between Ashford and Hope land since local families bought it from the Danes in AD926. But they have barely withstood the ravages of the motorcycles and Land Rovers which have driven down and across them.
    Giant stones now block the entrance to the dykes from motorcyclists who want to use them as race tracks. The sign announcing their historical importance is brand new. It was replaced after enraged off-roaders pulled it down.
    Last Saturday morning, the Grindleford Gallop – a charity event organised by local schools – came down Chertpit Lane. Six hundred walkers and runners made their way south. Four motorcyclists rode north against the tide. It is not hard to imagine what would have happened on a road, in parts only 2m wide, if the news had got abroad that it was open to every vehicle that wanted to race.
    It is fear for the future, as well as love of the landscape, that has made the tranquil majority fight back. Led by John Poulter, a retired tax inspector who is therefore immune from charges of intemperance or irresponsibility, the quiet people are monitoring off-road behaviour in 13 Peak District parishes. Council and Peak Park decisions are being examined for evidence of error or maladministration. There will not be a parish meeting or residents' forum in the whole area that does not have "the dangers of off-roading" on its agenda.
    Last Wednesday a gathering covering five villages lambasted the council for not identifying protected roads and the police for failing to prosecute when protected roads are violated. The campaigners are people who rarely demonstrate and never rebel but care. That is why it is likely to succeed.

    Roy Hattersley© : Published in the Observer 21-3-10

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Peak District parkland under threat from the rise of the 4x4s


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Lofty climbs of the Lake District weatherman

    Jon Bennett measures temperature and wind speed atop Helvellyn, the third highest English peak. Photograph: Christopher Thomond©
    Britain's cut-price mountain safety man set out this morning on his weekly equivalent of a climb up Everest, credited with saving thousands of pounds in rescues on the fells.
    Jon Bennett, a former hotel manager, pounds up Helvellyn in the Lake District every day with a mobile weather station collecting high-level data for the national park's detailed forecasts.
    Given just four and a half hours for the ascent and return of 950m (3,117ft), and paid £8.40 an hour, he meets dozens of fellwalkers and climbers dependent on his findings. Pausing briefly at the foot of Striding Edge this week, he was thanked in turn by retired marketing manager John McCarthy from Penrith and off-duty Liverpool police officer John Hanlon.
    "I was planning to take my teenage lad to the top of Helvellyn last week," said Hanlon, "but we got the snow and ice conditions from the weather service and decided discretion was our best bet." Bennett's warnings of classic avalanche conditions last week prompted similar prudence elsewhere – luckily, as there were dangerous snow slides in Borrowdale and the eastern fells.
    "We've two layers of compacted snow with a sandwich in between of spindrift – loose crystals which might as well be ballbearings for the way they act," said Bennett, scrabbling a hole in the cornices along the Edge. "That's the perfect set-up for an avalanche."
    The day's trek also saw Bennett note down walkers' footprints near the edge of corniced snow, which duly featured in his evening report on the park's website, which also feeds into a telephone weatherline and the Meteorological Office.
    "If you walk there you're on a shelf of snow above thin air," he said. "It may look like part of the mountain but it definitely isn't."
    Bennett, who shares the job with former overseas tour leader Jason Taylor, pilots Windermere tourist boats during alternate weeks and says he wouldn't want to do anything else. Hotel work was better paid but the surroundings were matchless.
    "Poor but happy, that's me," he says, looking across the sweep of peaks from Dollywagon Pike to Catstycam. "The commonest question I get is on the fells is: aren't you bored with Helvellyn? I say: no two climbs are the same. And how could anyone ever get bored with this?"
    He and Taylor are the latest in a tradition going back 34 years that is estimated to have saved hundreds of lives.
    "I meet former colleagues regularly and it's interesting to compare notes," he said. "They had to make pen and paper notes in all weathers, but today's instruments record their readings – wind speed and chill, snow depth and the like – electronically themselves."
    The mountaintop service works closely with fell rescue teams and its parsimony is helping their campaign to have VAT lifted from their lifesaving equipment. The government collects an estimated £200,000 from the voluntary outfits – enough to pay for Bennett and Taylor for more than 30 years.

    Martin Wainwright©. Published in The Guardian 18-3-10

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Lofty climbs of the Lake District weatherman


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Tryfan in relegation battle!

    Tryfan's east face from Helyg

    How the mighty have fallen! Well.... not just yet but one of north Wales''s most majestic peaks Tryfan, faces the ignominy of being relegated from the region's mountain Premiership,into it's equivalent of the Championship.
    Since records began,Tryfan whose graceful pyramydical form dominates the Ogwen Valley, has stood proudly at 3002ft and as such takes it's place within the respected pantheon of 3000' peaks in Wales which number just 15.
    Now, the mountain is about to be remeasured and may well lose its elite status. Using the very latest technology, a group of amatuer enthusiasts which includes John Barnard from Mold in north Wales will re-measure the mountain and complete their investigations this June.

    "With modern technology we can measure things within a centimetre of accuracy....Basically we are going to use a positioning system and put it on the summit to collect data, and then that information will be processed through a computer,'
    Former Labour A.M and Minister for sport within the Welsh Assembly and now a director of the Snowdonia Society, Alan Pugh commented...  
    "The mountain is such a superbly beautiful mountain and also because of its status as one of the elite group of 14 Welsh 3,000 ft peaks for nearly a century people have done the 14 peaks.... it is one of the mountaineering challenges of Wales. If it turned out that Tryfan was not as high then maybe that route would have to change', he added.
    " Whatever the outcome,climbers would still enjoy Tryfan's challenges.I'd think we'd all still enjoy scrambling along its north ridge, or climbing on the east face, or walking up the south ridge to the wonderful summit," he said.
    "It's a wonderful mountain with some fantastic views, that won't change a jot... it has a special part in the heart of anyone who enjoys climbing mountains in Wales,'

    Two years ago and using the same technology, Mr Barnard's team discovered a 'new' mountain within the popular Nantlle mountain range when the minor peak of Mynydd Graig Goch was promoted to a 2000' mountain having previously hovered just under the magic mark.

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Tryfan in relegation battle!


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Keswick Mountain Festival 2010

    Following on from the growing success of the Llamff mountain festival in North Wales comes the increasingly popular Keswick Mountain Festival which takes place on the 19th-23rd of May. Despite it's description as a 'mountain' festival. the KMF offers a host of outdoor activities which include everything from wild swimming and kayaking to mountain biking.
    The impressive cast list of speakers includes Leo Holding, Doug Scott, Dave Birkett....fell running legend Joss Naylor, adventurous toff, Ranulph Twistleton Fiennes and award winning climbing writer Andy Cave.
    A great thing about the KMF is it's 'hand's on' approach. This isn't one of those dry gatherings where earnest bearded rugged outdoor types sit in darkened rooms listening to a minor climbing celebrity rambling on about his latest trip to outer Mongolia,illustrated of course with 10.000 grainy slides! The emphasis is on the great outdoors and the organisers really do seem to have structured a great package of activities from scrambling with Leo Holding on Cam Ridge to paddling down Borrowdale to Derwentwater. Mountain Biking in the local forests to climbing tuition.
    The festival's interactive website offers a complete itinerary of speakers and activities so check it out pronto! The Keswick Mountain Festival
    Keswick Mountain Festival
    The Riverside Centre, Yard 39 : Highgate, Kendal, Cumbria, LA9 4ED
    Tel: 01539 729 048














    Andy Cave: One of the KMFs guest speakers.

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Keswick Mountain Festival 2010


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Outdoor huts:The future is here.

    The Society of Friends-better known to the general public as 'The Quakers', have -with architects Eco-Arc-pointed the way forward for all clubs and organisations who own and offer outdoor accommodation to members and guests throughout the UK's  vast network of club huts and properties.
    In the last two years,the society have transformed one of their houses near Robin Hood Bay inside the North Yorkshire National Park,into a carbon neutral property which exploits the very latest in low impact renewable technology and sustainable energy saving features.
    Situated 5 miles from the popular coastal holiday spot and just off the long distance Cleveland Way, the Society's Worfolk property has been tastefully upgraded to a standard that most outdoor clubs could only imagine in their wildest dreams! Features include..... 
    • Fully insulated extra-wide (200mm) cavity wall construction to new wrap-around extension
    • Insulated dry-lining to the original stone walls
    • Provision of high levels of insulation under the new ground floor construction
    • Sheep’s wool loft insulation to the roof
    • Draught sealing and regulated ventilation to improve thermal performance
    • Low energy, argon filled double glazed energy efficient timber doors and windows
    • Energy efficient wood stove using CO2 neutral fuel
    • Provision of low energy lighting system throughout
    • Inclusion of draught lobby to new entrance for heat retention
    • Glazed conservatory entrance lobby/cloaks area as passive sunspace
    • Full access & provision made for disabled persons
    • Four low flush water saving toilets
    • Showers and wash basins with water saving aerated heads supplied by solar hot water
    • 2 kW of photovoltaic solar panels to produce renewable electricity from the sun
    • 2.5 kW wind turbine on 6m mast to produce renewable electricity from the wind
    • Evacuated tube solar hot water panels providing naturally heated hot water
    • 4 kW ground source heat pump feeding a radiant under floor heating system
    • Natural green sedum roof to the extension providing a bio diverse living roof
    • Extensive, high specification glazing and roof lights providing high levels of natural light to new layout
    • Rainwater harvesting, and rain water recycling for toilet flushing and non-potable uses
    • Provision for recycling facilities
    • Larger sun lounge dining area with access hatch to the kitchen and scope for community access
    • Recycled aggregate concrete blocks used in all new masonry walls
    • Solvent free emulsion paints used throughout
    It's not easy being green but the Quakers with their North Yorks property have given it their best shot. A worthy example for ALL clubs who are considering upgrading their accommodation.

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Outdoor huts:The future is here.


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